Madeira Carl Permins Wine Shop
This fortified wine is a "Very Old" Madeira, produced from the finest grapes grown on the sunny vineyards of the Portuguese island. The bottle features a handwritten date of December 21, 1968, and was imported and bottled locally by Carl Permins Vinhandel, reflecting a historical merchant practice for foreign fortified wines.
Madeira is a volcanic archipelago situated in the Atlantic Ocean, approximately 600 kilometers off the coast of Morocco. The main island is characterized by a dramatic, mountainous landscape where vineyards are planted on steep slopes and narrow terraces, locally known as poios. These terraces stretch from the coastline up to elevations of around 800 meters. The soil is predominantly volcanic, rich in basalt and minerals, yet poor in chalk. The subtropical climate is heavily influenced by the Atlantic, providing mild temperatures year-round, while the mountainous geography creates various microclimates. To ensure ventilation and optimize the limited agricultural land, vines are traditionally trained on pergola systems called latada. The region is globally recognized for its unique fortified wine production, which involves deliberately exposing the wine to heat and oxidation through either the estufagem or the traditional canteiro method.
The wine is made from Sercial, a green grape variety characterized by its very late ripening. Originally hailing from the Portuguese mainland, the grape was replanted on Madeira following the phylloxera epidemic in the late 19th century and is now one of the island's four classic noble varieties. On Madeira, Sercial is typically cultivated in the coolest and highest-altitude vineyards, particularly on the northern coast around Seixal and Porto Moniz, as well as in elevated southern areas like Jardim da Serra. In these high altitudes, the vines are often tied close to the ground to maximize the heat radiating from the volcanic soil. Sercial requires a long growing season to reach full maturity and is usually the very last grape to be harvested on the island.
The history of the wine
Below, you can delve into the history of this wine — its producer, grape, area, and region.
Madeira
Madeira is a Portuguese archipelago and wine region located in the Atlantic Ocean, approximately 600 kilometers off the coast of Morocco. The main island, which gives its name to the region, is of volcanic origin and characterized by a dramatic, mountainous landscape. The vineyards are planted on steep slopes and narrow terraces, locally known as poios, which stretch from the coast up to an altitude of about 800 meters. The soil is predominantly volcanic, rich in basalt and minerals, but poor in limestone.
The climate on Madeira is subtropical and strongly influenced by the Atlantic Ocean, which provides mild temperatures year-round. The island's mountainous geography creates a variety of different microclimates depending on altitude and location on the island. The high humidity and the specific climatic conditions mean that the vines are traditionally trained in pergola systems, called latada, to ensure ventilation and optimally utilize the scarce agricultural land.
The region has a long and significant wine tradition dating back to the Age of Discovery in the 1400s, where the island served as an important supply stop for ships crossing the Atlantic Ocean. Madeira is world-renowned for its unique production of fortified wine, where the wine is deliberately exposed to heat and oxidation through either the estufagem or the traditional canteiro method. Production is centered around classic grape varieties such as Sercial, Verdelho, Boal, and Malvasia, as well as the widespread Tinta Negra, which are grown on small, manually worked parcels by the island's many winegrowers.
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How it handles
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Storage
Store the bottle horizontally at 12–14°C and avoid direct sunlight, vibrations, and temperature fluctuations.
Opening
Allow the bottle to stand upright for 24–48 hours before opening to allow sediment to settle. Use a professional corkscrew and open carefully.
Enjoyment
Serve at 17–18°C and be patient – there is a great difference in how and how quickly wines open up when they are aerated.
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